AZ Academy Designers Launch Debut Collections at Paris Pop-Up
Six emerging designers from Richemont's AZ Academy are launching their first commercial capsule collections at a Paris pop-up during Fashion Week.
Six emerging designers are launching their debut commercial collections at a Paris pop-up boutique from 30 September to 17 October 2026. The event, timed to Paris Fashion Week, marks the retail debut for graduates of the inaugural AZ Academy: Business for Designers programme, a 12-month initiative developed by Richemont and Creative Academy in partnership with Accademia Costume & Moda. The designers were selected last December from the programme's first cohort.
The pop-up, located at Heureux les Curieux, 23 rue du Pont aux Choux in the Marais, is open Monday to Saturday from 10:30 to 19:00 and Sunday from 11:00 to 19:00. It represents the culmination of the A Bunch of Designers collective initiative. Visitors can meet the designers, purchase pieces, and attend live atelier demonstrations.
Designer nationalities and brand philosophies
The six designers hail from China, Italy, Spain, France, Germany, and the Philippines. Each brings a distinct philosophy and aesthetic to their work.
Brais Albor designs menswear that spans tailoring, sportswear, and underwear. His brand focuses on bodies conventional menswear overlooks, catering to big boys, men in extra sizes, and gym buddies. He is guided by a 'Love Revolution' philosophy. Merle Breuker’s label, 'The Lasting', offers a modular wardrobe made from leftover European stock, designed to be adjusted, extended, detached, and recombined. Sandra Jao creates experimental womenswear, transforming ropes, umbrellas, and outdoor structures into sculptural silhouettes.
Liwen Liang developed a method to turn ceramic from Jingdezhen heritage into a lightweight, flexible, wearable material, exploring the tension between fragility and strength. Manon Marcelot crafts leather goods inspired by agricultural tools and landscapes, an approach she calls 'agricultural sophistication'. Caterina Moro’s work translates nature into fashion via prints, embroideries, and embossings under her 'E ART H - Earth as Art' philosophy.
On-site activations and product highlights
Each designer will host a live demonstration at the pop-up. Brais Albor will demonstrate live pattern cutting, Merle Breuker live embroidery on patches, and Sandra Jao will shows her AiryString® technology. Liwen Liang will host a ceramic kintsugi workshop, Manon Marcelot will demonstrate small leather goods making, and Caterina Moro will scan natural forms to create textile prints.
Their hero products and price points vary significantly across the collections below.
| Designer | Hero Product | Price Range (Euros) | Key Details |
|---|---|---|---|
| Manon Marcelot | Sonnaille bag | 485 - 1,050 | Crafted in France and Spain from deadstock leathers. |
| Caterina Moro | Tree of Life knit | ~500 - 1,500 | Features 'macro micro' prints created with artist Germano Serafini. |
| Merle Breuker | 'double pants' | 35 (accessories) - 690 (outerwear) | Part of a modular unisex suit look designed for mixing. |
| Sandra Jao | anorak | 400 - 1,800 | Most pieces produced in Japan; integrates YKK's tapeless zippers. |
| Liwen Liang | ceramic bag | 200 - 1,500 | Line includes porcelain mini tops, skirts, bags, and bras. |
| Brais Albor | suit and briefs | TBC | Focused on menswear for overlooked body types. |
Designer ambitions and next steps
Each designer has specific goals for the pop-up and plans for what comes after. Manon Marcelot aims to gather consumer feedback and meet her first wholesalers. Caterina Moro wants to test her brand's new model with an international audience. Merle Breuker seeks direct feedback from potential wearers. Sandra Jao hopes to demonstrate how new technologies can serve creativity.
Liwen Liang aims to reach European clients and find department stores to stock her collection. Brais Albor will gauge retail interest based on consumer reaction. Their subsequent steps are equally varied. Marcelot plans to consolidate her production chain to scale. Moro dreams of opening a small boutique in Rome as a creative hub. Breuker will refine her core line based on feedback.
Jao intends to develop a proper first collection. Liang wants to build her ceramic fabric into a platform for broader applications. Albor's next step depends on pop-up results, but his goal is to build a team and work full-time on his brand.
Richemont’s role and leadership commentary
Richemont provided full operational support, coaching, strategic guidance, and financed prototyping and product development for the programme, which is based in Milan. Philippe Fortunato, chief executive officer of fashion and accessories maisons at Richemont, reflected on the designers' journey from their initial pitch in December 2025 to market readiness.
“When we first met these six designers in December during their final pitch, they were presenting ideas, collections and business plans,” Fortunato said. “Since then, sketches have become prototypes, prototypes have been refined, materials sourced, production launched and prices set.” He added that nurturing creative talent is a long-standing commitment for the group.
The programme, born from the legacy of Alber Elbaz and the evolution of AZ Factory, offers training in finance, merchandising, pricing, and brand definition. Lutz Huelle, a former AZ Factory 'Amigo', serves as an ambassador and was on the admission jury. Grazia Valtorta, Executive Director and CEO of Creative Academy, noted the academy's role in helping designers turn creative ambition into viable business.
Caterina Moro said the project allowed her to give concrete form to the direction I had been searching for: fewer pieces, created with intention, experimentation and care. The designers will use feedback from the Paris pop-up to refine their offerings and pursue their individual next chapters.
