Issey Miyake

Origin and history

Issey Miyake originates from Japan, founded by designer Issey Miyake in the early 1970s. The Issey Miyake brand was formally established in Tokyo in 1970, following Miyake's return from apprenticeships in Paris and New York. Its first official collection was presented in a show in New York in 1971, marking its entry into the international fashion sphere. The brand gained early recognition for its avant-garde approach to fabric and form, distinct from prevailing Western fashion norms. A pivotal development came in the late 1980s with the creation of the "Pleats Please" line, which debuted in 1993 and became a signature. The brand's design philosophy has consistently revolved around innovation, technology, and a unique dialogue between the body and the garment.

What it is for

The Issey Miyake brand produces high-end fashion collections and signature product lines. Its primary purpose is to create innovative clothing and accessories that challenge conventional construction through textile research and design engineering. The collections are intended for public presentation on global runways, primarily during the Paris Fashion Week schedule for women's and men's wear. These runway shows display the conceptual and artistic direction of the brand for the upcoming season. A curated selection of the pieces from these collections subsequently reaches authorized Issey Miyake boutiques and high-end department stores worldwide for commercial sale. The brand also maintains permanent lines like "Pleats Please" and "HOMME PLISSÉ," which are continuously produced and stocked, separate from the seasonal collection cycle.

What to wear to Issey Miyake

Attending an Issey Miyake runway show or event typically calls for a sophisticated and fashion-aware ensemble. Guests often wear pieces from the designer's own lines, such as a "Pleats Please" dress or a garment from a recent seasonal collection, to demonstrate appreciation for the brand's aesthetic. Alternatively, wearing architectural or minimalist designs from other avant-garde labels is also considered appropriate, aligning with the intellectual and artistic atmosphere. The key is to prioritize innovative cut, interesting texture, or conceptual design over overtly flashy or logo-heavy luxury items. Footwear should be elegant and considered, with many opting for distinctive designer shoes or clean, modern silhouettes. The overall impression should be one of deliberate, knowledgeable style that respects the experimental nature of the brand's presentation.

Issey Miyake outfit ideas

An outfit centered on a single "Pleats Please" piece, like a full-length pleated skirt or dress, can be foundational, paired with a simple knit top and minimalist sandals. For a more dynamic look, layer a textured, geometric jacket from a mainline collection over a sleek base of a turtleneck and tailored trousers. The "HOMME PLISSÉ" line offers pleated trousers that can be paired with a crisp, oversized shirt and technical sneakers for a smart yet comfortable men's ensemble. A sculptural top from the brand, perhaps in a synthetic, molded fabric, can serve as a statement piece when worn with plain, dark, wide-leg trousers. Incorporating one of the brand's iconic Bao Bao bags, with its geometric panel construction, can add a recognizable yet functional accent to a monochromatic outfit. For cooler weather, consider one of the brand's innovative, thermally-regulating coats over layered separates in coordinating tones.

Overview

The Issey Miyake brand encompasses the main seasonal collections designed by the founding designer and, following his retirement from design leadership in the late 1990s, by a collective studio. These collections are presented bi-annually for Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter during the official fashion week calendars. Alongside these evolving collections, the brand maintains its independently operating permanent lines, which have become staples of its commercial identity. The items that reach retail shops are a edited version of the runway pieces, focusing on wearable art and commercially viable innovations. Its global presence is maintained through flagship boutiques in major cities and selective wholesale partnerships.

What to know

The brand operates under a collective design studio system, meaning the seasonal collections are developed by a team rather than a single named successor to Issey Miyake. Iconic product lines like "Pleats Please" utilize a unique garment-construction process where pieces are cut and sewn oversized, then pleated, resulting in elastic, shape-retaining forms. The "A-POC" (A Piece Of Cloth) line, introduced in the late 1990s, represents a radical approach where garments are knitted as a single tube of fabric for the wearer to cut out. Issey Miyake's perfumes, most notably "L'Eau d'Issey," are a significant and long-standing part of the brand's product portfolio, launched in the early 1990s. The brand's retail pricing reflects its position as a luxury design house, with investment in research, proprietary techniques, and high-quality materials. Archives of the brand's work are considered important artifacts of contemporary design and are held in major museum collections worldwide.

Common questions

A frequent question is whether Issey Miyake still designs the collections, to which the answer is no; he stepped back from designing the seasonal lines decades ago, though the studio continues his philosophy. People often ask about the care for pleated garments, which are machine washable and designed to retain their pleats permanently due to the heat-setting process used in production. Many inquire about the difference between the main Issey Miyake collection and the "Pleats Please" line, the latter being a separate, continuous collection focused solely on pleated wear. A common question concerns the availability of runway pieces, with only a portion of the most avant-garde show pieces ever being produced for commercial sale. Customers often ask about sizing, which can vary between lines, with "Pleats Please" known for its forgiving, stretchable fit based on the pleating technique. Another regular inquiry is about the inspiration behind the designs, which consistently draws from a blend of Japanese aesthetic principles, modern art, and technological innovation.

Pros and cons

A significant advantage is the unique, intellectual aesthetic that offers wearers a distinct alternative to mainstream luxury fashion, often seen as wearable art. The technical innovation in fabrics, such as the permanent pleats or lightweight, crinkle-resistant materials, provides exceptional functionality and easy care. A notable drawback is the high retail price point, which places the garments out of reach for many and can make them a significant investment purchase. Some wearers regret purchases when they find the avant-garde silhouettes or bold textures difficult to integrate into a more conventional wardrobe, leading to infrequent use. The common mistake is buying a piece for its iconic status without considering personal comfort with its architectural shape, resulting in a garment that feels costume-like. Another con is that the minimalist and conceptual design can sometimes be misinterpreted as simple or plain by those unfamiliar with the brand's technical and philosophical underpinnings.

Who it suits

The brand suits individuals who prioritize conceptual design, innovation, and artistic expression in their clothing over overt branding or traditional luxury status symbols. It is ideal for those with an appreciation for technology and craft, who understand and value the research behind the materials and construction techniques. The permanent lines like "Pleats Please" particularly suit an active, modern lifestyle seeking comfort, ease of movement, and low-maintenance care without sacrificing a distinctive look. The aesthetic appeals to wearers who favor architectural, sculptural forms that create space around the body rather than adhering closely to its contours. It is well-suited to collectors and fashion enthusiasts who view clothing as a form of cultural and design commentary, building a wardrobe of statement pieces. The brand also resonates with professionals in creative fields who use dress as an extension of their personal and professional identity, seeking intelligent and conversation-starting attire.