To A Wake

Origin and history

To A Wake is a contemporary fashion collection designed by the Irish designer Simone Rocha. The collection was first presented to the public in the early 2020s, specifically debuting during the Autumn/Winter 2023 fashion season. Its creation and presentation are rooted in the European fashion calendar, with its initial show taking place in London. The collection's thematic core draws from a deeply personal and cultural exploration of mourning rituals and the concept of an Irish wake. Rocha's work consistently engages with themes of femininity, fragility, and strength, and this collection represents a focused evolution of those ideas. The historical context it references is not of a garment type but of a social ceremony, reinterpreting its emotional and aesthetic resonance into modern clothing.

What it is for

The To A Wake collection is designed for formal and sombre social occasions that require a dignified and respectful appearance, primarily modern funeral services and memorial gatherings. It serves as a sartorial response to the act of mourning, providing garments that balance decorum with a personal expression of grief and remembrance. The pieces are intended for wearers who seek an alternative to conventional, often austere, funeral attire, offering a sense of ceremony and beauty during a difficult time. Beyond literal funerals, the collection is also worn for events where a dark, romantic, and elegant formality is desired, such as certain evening functions or performances. It functions as wearable art that engages with cultural rituals, allowing the wearer to participate in a tradition through a contemporary fashion lens. The collection is not designed for casual wear, celebratory events, or professional business settings, as its thematic weight and design specificity anchor it to contexts of reflection and solemnity.

What to wear to To A Wake

Attire for a wake or funeral, when considering the ethos of the To A Wake collection, should prioritize modesty, respect, and a subdued colour palette, predominantly black. Fabrics should be chosen for their sober elegance, such as wool crepe, heavy silk, tulle, or velvet, which convey a sense of gravity and texture. Clothing silhouettes are typically formal, encompassing tailored coats, full-length dresses, structured blouses, and skirts that fall below the knee. Footwear should be closed-toe and formal, like polished leather shoes or low-heeled pumps, avoiding anything overly casual or brightly coloured. Outerwear is often a key component, with tailored coats or capes providing both warmth and a completed, dignified silhouette. Accessories should be minimal and meaningful, perhaps limited to simple pearl earrings, a black headband, or a single piece of heirloom jewellery, avoiding anything flashy or ostentatious.

To A Wake outfit ideas

A foundational outfit idea centers on a black wool crepe dress with a high neckline and long sleeves, paired with sheer black tights and patent leather Mary Jane shoes. Another option combines a tailored black coatdress, belted at the waist, worn over a pleated silk skirt and a delicate lace-trimmed blouse. For a more layered approach, a voluminous black tulle skirt can be worn under a sharply tailored masculine blazer, creating a dialogue between fragility and structure. Consider a head-to-toe look in varying black textures: a velvet hair bow, a silk faille dress, and a mohair coat. An outfit incorporating the collection's symbolic elements might feature a pearl-embellished cardigan over a simple black column dress, with pearls representing tears. For those who find solid black too severe, an outfit could incorporate very dark, sombre tones like charcoal grey or navy in a matching skirt and jacket set, with black accessories.

Overview

The To A Wake collection by Simone Rocha is a cohesive body of work that translates the ritual of an Irish wake into a modern fashion vocabulary. It is characterized by a predominantly black colour scheme, interrupted occasionally by flashes of white, silver, and symbolic red, representing both purity and the sacred heart. Key design signatures include generous volumes, often achieved through tulle underskirts and puff sleeves, contrasted with precise tailoring on coats and jackets. Recurring motifs are pearls, which are scattered across garments like tears, along with delicate lace, satin ribbons, and crystal embellishments that suggest mourning jewellery. The collection presents a unified aesthetic of romantic gloom, where traditional funeral attire is reimagined with poetic detail and material richness. It stands as a specific and intentional proposal for how one might dress for loss, merging cultural tradition with contemporary design.

What to know

The collection is not a line of traditional mourning wear but a high-fashion interpretation, meaning its pieces are statement garments intended for specific occasions rather than daily life. It is important to understand that the collection's shows are theatrical presentations; the most extreme runway pieces, such as those with immense tulle volume or dramatic veiling, are often toned down for the production items that reach retail shops. The items that are commercially available, while still expressive, are typically edited for wearability, focusing on key coats, dresses, and separates that embody the theme. Purchasing requires an appreciation for conceptual fashion and a budget aligned with designer ready-to-wear, as pieces are positioned in a higher price bracket. The collection has been influential in shifting the dialogue around funeral attire, making it a subject of fashion commentary and broadening the acceptable options for such events. Care for these garments is often delicate due to the use of specialty fabrics like tulle, lace, and beaded embellishments, frequently requiring professional cleaning.

Common questions

A frequently asked question is whether one must wear head-to-toe black from this collection to a funeral, to which the answer is no, as the collection itself incorporates tonal variations and the modern etiquette for mourning attire has become more flexible. People often inquire about the appropriateness of the collection's more voluminous skirts or dramatic sleeves for a somber event, which depends on the specific context and the wearer's relationship to the deceased, with tailored silhouettes being a safer choice. Many ask if the pearl embellishments are suitable, and they generally are, as pearls have a long history in mourning jewellery and are considered tasteful and symbolic. A common logistical question concerns the availability of sizes, as designer collections often have a more limited size range compared to high-street brands, though some retailers may carry extended sizes. Customers regularly ask how to style the pieces for occasions other than funerals, which can be achieved by pairing a statement piece like an embroidered cardigan with simpler, modern basics to dilute the thematic weight. Another question surrounds the seasonal nature of the collection, as it was an Autumn/Winter presentation, meaning heavier fabrics are prevalent, though some transitional pieces may be suitable for cooler spring or summer days.

Pros and cons

A significant advantage of the To A Wake collection is its provision of a deeply considered, elegant alternative to generic dark clothing for funerals, offering wearers a sense of ceremonial purpose and personal expression during grief. The pieces are constructed from high-quality materials with meticulous attention to detail, ensuring they become lasting items in one's wardrobe for solemn occasions. However, a genuine drawback is the potential for the designs to be perceived as overly theatrical or "fashion-forward" in conservative funeral settings, possibly drawing unwanted attention rather than blending respectfully. The cost is a substantial barrier, making the collection inaccessible for many who may need appropriate funeral attire, and the purchase can feel impractical for a garment with such a specific use case. Some wearers regret choosing the more extreme pieces, like large tulle skirts, finding them logistically difficult in crowded spaces or when sitting for long periods during a service. A common mistake is purchasing an item without considering its versatility, leading to a beautiful garment that remains unworn in the closet because it feels too costumey for any other event.

Who it suits

This collection best suits individuals who appreciate conceptual fashion and use clothing as a form of personal and emotional narrative, particularly those drawn to dark romantic aesthetics. It is ideal for someone who has a funeral or memorial service to attend and wishes to honor the occasion with exceptional, thoughtful attire that moves beyond a standard black suit or dress. The collection resonates with people who have a connection to Irish culture or an understanding of the wake tradition, as they will fully grasp the symbolic references embedded in the designs. It suits those with a wardrobe that already accommodates formalwear and who have the budget to invest in a designer piece for infrequent but significant events. The clothing often suits a range of ages but tends to align with an adult sensibility, as the themes of mourning and the sophistication of the cuts are not typically designed for children or adolescents. Finally, it suits the fashion-conscious mourner who seeks to balance respect for tradition with a desire for contemporary self-presentation, without resorting to casual or anonymizing clothing.