Saint Laurent SS27 Gold Collection Marks Vaccarello's Tenth Year

Anthony Vaccarello presented Saint Laurent's Spring/Summer 2027 collection last night. The show, held under the sparkling lights of the Eiffel Tower during Paris Fashion Week, bathed the runway in a sea of shimmering gold, fueling intense rumors of his potential departure.

The collection was dedicated almost exclusively to gold, used not as an accent but to envelop every piece from head to toe. Vaccarello employed a spectrum from deep, burnished to Byzantine hues across a vast range of fabrics. The result was a textural odyssey where materials appeared to constantly shift, looking soft, sculptural, and almost liquid.

The opening look set the tone: an oversized gold bomber with a nipped waist over a hip-hugging pencil skirt, accessorized only with a trailing khaki chiffon scarf. The next 48 looks followed a similar utilitarian spirit, featuring funnel-neck bombers, biker jackets, and safari styles paired with pencil skirts. Vaccarello later introduced slinky, see-through cocktail dresses crafted entirely from guipure lace covered in gold.

References and signatures

Vaccarello balanced recognizable Saint Laurent archetypes-trenches, blouses, wrap skirts-with his own signatures like strong-shouldered coats and precise short suits. The collection served as a direct reference to house history, invoking founder Yves Saint Laurent, who once described gold as "the color of the sun." The final ten looks were a specific ode to the founder's favourite colour.

The first of this finale sequence was a broad-shouldered ‘80s-style jacket with a Mandarin collar and oversized jewel-crusted buttons. It was followed by a spectacular one-shoulder silk tulle ballgown with a dramatic floating train. The remaining eight looks were variations on these jacket and gown ensembles, concluding with a voluminous, enveloping gown. This finale paid homage to the liberated, spirited woman Yves Saint Laurent always designed for.

Show highlights and reactions

The presentation was a sensory experience. Against a blackened night sky and the glow of chandeliers, singer Charlotte Gainsbourg performed for the crowd, repeating the line, "You are so much, Yves Saint Laurent." The front row included notable faces like Rosé, Kate Moss, Zoë Kravitz, Rami Malek, and Post Malone.

After the extensive exploration of gold textures, the collection transitioned dramatically. Everything went black. The show closed with a series of black velvet suits and cloud-like evening dresses that absorbed the surrounding light, providing a stark, quiet counterpoint to the golden spectacle.

Context and consequence

The bold, totalizing statement was interpreted by many as a potential farewell. Rumours had circulated before the show that it might be Vaccarello’s final collection for the house. The presentation was described as going out with a bang. One prominent critic declared it looked like goodbye at Saint Laurent.

Vaccarello had sent a handwritten note to select journalists before the show, stating he had envisioned this collection for a long time and finally felt it was the right moment to bring it to light. Whether this show marked his last hurrah or not, it is certain he came out on top.